| Dundee Hills Pinot Noirs by Linda Murphy for jancisrobinson.com
As reported in Vintage 2006 in Oregon, the Dundee Hills won their own AVA last year. This 6,490-acre region has crimson, volcanic clay-loam soils that drain very well. Peaks of up to 1,000 feet rise above the Willamette and Chehalem valley floors, trapping warmth from the day and shielding vines from fog and frost, which make ripening such a challenge in the Willamette Valley.
Although I didn’t find a consistent Dundee Hills terroir in the small sampling of Pinot Noirs described below, I did find some marvellous wines, and look forward to tasting new releases from other important Dundee Hills producers, among them Archery Summit, Argyle, Domaine Drouhin Oregon and Domaine Serene.
DePonte Pinot Noir 2004 Dundee Hills: Gloriously mouthwatering acidity and crunchy berry/cherry fruit counter the substantial body and alcohol (14.5%) of this plushly textured wine. An ever-so-slight chalky note adds interest, and fine-grained tannins join acidity to give the wine its cellaring potential.
Eyrie Estate Pinot Noir 2002 Willamette Valley: David “Papa Pinot” Lett says “colour and true varietal flavors in Pinot Noir exist in an inverse ratio.” He insists on lighter colour, less alcohol, elegance and food compatibility – a disappearing style in Oregon - and this one is textbook Lett. Pretty aromas of violet, rose petal and red cherry, with a delicate palate (just 13% alcohol!) of red berries and tart cherries. It’s crisp and with lots of flavour; don’t be fooled by its “light” color. Labeled prior to approval of the Dundee Hills AVA.
Lange Estate Pinot Noir 2005 Dundee Hills: A bouncing baby compared to the mature Eyrie -- fresh and lively, with bright black cherry and raspberry fruit, plus truffle, anise and chocolate notes on a medium frame. Brisk and lingering, it’s a good match for fatty duck. The alcohol is a sensible 13.5%.
Sokol Blosser Pinot Noir 2004 Dundee Hills: Tightly wound now and one for the cellar, it has still-grapey black cherry and plum fruit, hints of spice and tar, racy acidity and firm tannins. Expect harmony in another year or so. Made from organically grown grapes.
Stoller Estate Pinot Noir 2004 Dundee Hills: Velvety texture and refreshing acidity make for both luxurious and lively drinking. Subtlely oaked, with vibrant cherry and red-berry fruit and hints of baking spice, loam and mineral, it’s a complete, balanced Pinot in a ripe, New World style.
The Four Graces Reserve Pinot Noir 2004 Willamette Valley: It’s for those who like a heavier, toastier style of Pinot Noir. It has ripe, juicy red berry and cherry aromas and flavours, although the oak and tobacco notes overshadow the fruit at this stage. Substantial tannins beg for pairing with sturdy meats.
Torii Mor Olson Estate Pinot Noir 2004 Dundee Hills: The winery describes the mouthfeel as “rich with noticeable heat from the alcohol,” and the honesty is admirable. The wine is indeed ripe and packs some heat, yet it’s balanced by good acidity and complexing charcoal, chocolate and vanilla notes. It will find favour with fans of heady, hedonistic Pinot Noir.
Winter’s Hill Pinot Noir 2004 Dundee Hills: Bright red-fruit nose and palate, with earth and herbal notes. Clean and well-made, it falls just short on fully mature flavors and ripe tannins.
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